. Check the system for proper operation. Been wanting to get around to fixing the switch for my hazards for about a year, now. Install new headlamp and dimmer multifunction switches. Dunno if the defogger works or not, but the hazards were my main priority. I don't have a diagram for the Defrost switch, but if you look inside the back of the switch housing by the terminals you should see the letters B, D, J, U. At this point, I'm about ready to just go ahead and break the crap, then find some alternative ghetto way of holding the thing in place, afterward.
Ford also says for the ramp style clip locks like you see on the Hazard switch that you can just grab the whole harness and pull, but as brittle as these connectors get I would be afraid that you would end up pulling all the wires out at once so I usually save that method for the junkyard. He wants me to put a new one in for him. In the schematic below you will find parts like the started relay, ignition coil, radio speaker, radio light, heater blower motor, air conditioner compressor clutch solenoid, air conditioner unit, 15-amp fuse, seat belt warning light, seat belt warning indicator switch, fuse panel, blower motor resistor, radio, heater switch, cigar lighter, ignition switch, light switch, courtesy light switch, tachometer, tachometer light, stowage compartment light, clock, clock light, emergency warning flasher, emergency warning switch, transmission selector indicator light, and the courtesy light. Had to snap off one of the clips to get that bugger out of there, but the top one still holds it in there just fine. The only additional draw other than the headlights should be the relays coil on this switch.
Cut the wire as near as possible to the wire harness tape wrap and throw away. It is best for you to read and get understanding about this instrument cluster wiring diagram before trying to fix abything in your Ford Mustang. Perform normal diagnostic procedure if no heat damage is found. The tools come in a set with different bends in the tips for different connector clips. The firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8and is counterclockwise from 1. I have working hazard lights again! He wants me to put a new one in for him. Feb 06, 2010 for the most part when you put the engine back the wires will lay back where they need to go and that will help you most plugs are not interchangeable but some sensors are if you can take a peek at one to get a idea of how to start the wires then it will be easier.
Refer to the following application charts for the correct parts usage. For the wiring color code, you can see the code and what it represents below: 2 — white-blue, 3 — green-white, 8 — orange-yellow, 10 — green-red, 16 — re-green, 16A — pink, 490 19 — blue-red, 913 460 358 21 — yellow, 22 — blue-black, 25 — black-orange, 709 297 30 — black-green, 37 — black-yellow, 40 — blue-white, 44 — blue, 53 — black-blue, 54 — green-yellow, 708 359 57 — black, 137 — yellow-black, 140 — black-red, 262 181 — brown, 648 — red, 482 — blue-yellow, 450 — green, 520 — violet. Say, anyone know an easy way to unhook those weird clips from the back of the switch without breaking anything? Why there was never a recall on these I will never understand. If the distributor is in the right way, the clips that hold the cap on should be just a hair off of 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. I haven't a clue which ones go where, and as it sits now, my rear defrost and hazards are dead - not that I use defrost out here, anyway, but having hazard lights would be a nice safety bonus, y'know? As best I can remember the larger bundle runs down the passenger side of the engine intake Dec 30, 2008.
Refer to the appropriate car shop manual, Section 32-02 for service details. If you look at the outsides of the switches lights and hazards you'll see two 'catches' that you can depress in order to wiggle the switch out. You need to replace switch and connector first and then take the load off this switch by adding a relay for the fog lights and transfering the draw to the battery instead. The passenger's side is cylinders 1-2-3-4, from the front of the car. Last time I had my gauge cluster out, those stupid bass-ackwards clips holding the wiring plugs into the back of the switches for the headlights and such resulted in my accidentally pulling out a couple of wires from the back of the plugs - I didn't even pull on them hardly, they just sort of fell out and dangled there.
Refer to the following procedure for service details. It can still be a pain to release with the the tools, but they beat screwdrivers most of the time. Crimp new terminals to the correct length of 12 gauge wire and install them in the connectors. I've always pulled them out from the front first, then you can pull a few inches of the harness out to have easier access to the clips. Clips on plugs annoy the crap out of me.
Usually you have to alternate depressing each catch and wiggle the switch, but it comes out in a few seconds. Inspect the switch and connector terminals of circuit 15 for any heat damage such as discolored terminals or distorted connectors. This may be caused by overheating of the headlamp circuit 15. Action: Install new wiring, terminals, headlamp, and dimmer switches. As best I can remember the larger bundle runs down the passenger side of the engine intake Posted on Dec 30, 2008 Try this. But the only real remedy to prevent future failures is to remove the fog light load off of the headlight switch and put it where it belongs, on a relay drawing its power load off the battery. I had to fart around with the bugger for about an hour last time to maneuver a pair of screwdrivers behind it to pry the clips out and wiggle the thing off the switch.
The driver's side is 5-6-7-8 from the front. The parts we shall see inside will be like: ignition switch, fuel pump relay, engine coolant temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, barometric pressure sensor, neutral safety switch, etc. My funky Z-shaped screwdriver usually works, but even now it fails to make this crap any easier. Proceed as follows if heat damage is found: A. Overlay the new wire along the existing wire harness and tape wrap it.
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